As land in France’s grand cru regions and the Napa Valley becomes eye-wateringly expensive, innovative winemakers are transforming previously unfashionable areas
At a British dinner party there might be a bottle of bottle of burgundy and conversation will, inevitably, turn to house prices. At a dinner party in Burgundy, the talk will more than likely be about the cost of land.
The thrust of the conversation will be uncannily similar. At the Burgundy table, any vignerons lucky enough to own a patch of vines in a favoured location will be barely able to conceal their glee as the latest eye-watering local sale is discussed. The rumoured€30m per hectare paid for the great Clos de Tart late last year being the most extreme example in a region where seven-figure sums are becoming the norm for a hectare of grand cru land.
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