Roast hogget and rhubarb trifle: Gill Meller’s Easter recipes

The River cottage chef marks the first festival of his cookery year with a spring feast

We all like a reason to cook. Days need marking, they need to be remembered and making something good to eat usually helps us do that. Easter is special in that respect, and is celebrated by all kinds of people in all manner of ways. For me, it’s the first festival of my cookery year. It’s a chance to lay a table and generally make a fuss over spring.