‘We’ve had to become more flexible cooks’: one-pot dishes by Anna Jones

Brilliant vegetarian recipes from her new book One: Pot, Pan, Planet, including tofu pad thai, saag aloo shepherd’s pie and rhubarb fool

When Anna Jones looks back at her first three cookbooks, starting with 2014’s A Modern Way to Eat, she wonders if she might have been too “gentle”. She was a cook, after all, not a campaigner or a climate scientist. On a video call from her home in east London, Jones smiles: “At the beginning I’d not even mention they were vegetarian, and hope people would get halfway through, then realise and be like: ‘Oh, it’s actually a nice vegetarian cookbook!’

“I’ve never really been a soapbox person,” continues Jones. “I’m much more a people-pleaser. But as you write, and as you age, you definitely have more confidence now to stand up and say what you think. And now I’m saying: ‘No. This is what I think you should do.’” A pause, “If you can.”