Roast duck and baked quince: Nigel Slater’s recipes for festive gatherings

A terrine to share, a homemade chutney and candied peel tartlets – Christmas cooking for all-comers

I drag a branch into the hallway, a broken bough to sit in a tall pot by the fireplace, its branches decked with tufts of moss and wooden stars. A gift to the house – a thank you, if you like. This is also the place where visitors are welcomed and plied with tiny tarts of candied peel and glasses of chilled fino (or perhaps a glass of oloroso the colour of amber). It is where gifts are exchanged and, later, guests are sent safely on their way.

There is much to be said for having something in the house for all-comers. Cake, of course, some little pies, a massive tin of Quality Street, but I like to have something savoury and more substantial too – a terrine, an earthenware dish of coarse-textured pork paté is my answer. Something to slice and offer with toast or oatcakes.