Ixta Belfrage’s secret ingredient: dried habanero chillies

From stews and broths to custard desserts, the cook and food writer describes how to capture the unique flavour of this staple Mexican seasoning

The smell of habanero chillies is incredible. It is a sort of hot fruitiness with a hint of smoke. It is almost impossible to put into words.They are native to the Amazon, but most people consider them to be Mexican because that’s the cuisine they’re most used in. I use dried because you can’t get fresh ones in the UK.

You can add dried habanero chillies to sauces or stews or broths. I add them to brown butter. I sometimes grate one with a microplane over a dish at the end – for example, a fish crudo or ceviche. You could also do that with pasta, or even desserts – custards or flans.