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Welcome to August’s Observer Food Monthly – our restaurants special

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This month we celebrate restaurants new and old with Evelyn’s Table and the River Cafe, plus recipes from much-loved chefs Jeremy Lee and Moro’s Sam and Sam Clark

Welcome to the restaurants issue, where we talk to the remarkable Selby brothers, the chefs at Evelyn’s Table, a 12-seat counter in the cellar of the famous Soho watering hole The Blue Posts. Now that word of their cooking has spread, booking a seat means you must be quick on the draw but you will be rewarded with not only extraordinary and original food but the chance to watch Luke, Nat and Theo in action.

One learns which influencers and restaurant critics to trust and which to ignore, but it is also good to have a recommendation from someone who spends time behind the stoves themselves. With this in mind we ask top chefs to tell us where they’ve been eating recently and, more specifically, places that are new on the map. Their suggestions run from oysters with buttermilk and elderberry in a bothy overlooking Loch Nell to red cabbage gazpacho above a jeweller’s shop in Lichfield.

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