In this issue of OFM we look at the special relationship between man and pig, South America's star chef Alex Atala, and Angela Hartnett's latest venture with her boyfriend Neil Borthwick
I have adopted a rare breed pig, visiting it regularly, occasionally feeding it and giving it the odd hug and tickle. When I'm not around, it is in very good hands, but despite its placid nature, its black patches and floppy ears, I'm not remotely attached to it, and am thinking only of its belly, chops and crackling. The fact that I have had the chance to see this animal grow, scratch, feed and play football (OK, snout-ball) is partly due to the work of those dedicated people who have revived Britain's rare breeds. For this issue, Robert McCrum has talked to some of the country's pig breeders about their obsession with these beautiful, intelligent animals.
Farther from home, Allan Jenkins has been spending time with Alex Atala, chef-proprietor of DOM in São Paulo. Atala is doing for Brazilian cuisine what René Redzepi has done for Nordic. Together, Alex and our intrepid editor have gone deep into the Amazon, meeting the indigenous people who are working with this world-famous restaurant, helping to grow and source ingredients.
On our doorstep, Angela Hartnett and Neil Borthwick are about to open the Merchant's Tavern in London's East End. But this is not simply an account of yet another restaurant opening. This is the story of a friendship, a terrible accident, a coma and a long road to recovery. The restaurant is on course to open at the beginning of October.
Rachel Cooke tells us, brilliantly, of her life spent in restaurants, from early visits to Berni Inns (the Hereford branch being the highlight of my childhood) to the Quality Chop House. Jay Rayner has been visiting food banks in London and Hull, speaking to the volunteers who run them, and finding out why their use has tripled in the past 12 months. Oh, and he ponders my favourite cocktail, the negroni, and why he doesn't like it. Cheers.