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Nigel Slater: welcome to the December issue of Observer Food Monthly

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Our experts test the Christmas food – and Rachel Cooke celebrates the centenary of Elizabeth David

It's good to get a little help. Which is why we have let our panel of experts take a look at the high street and sort out the geese from the turkeys for us. Tom Kerridge has diligently hunted down the best saucisson and cold meats he can find, and recommends which ones to put out for your guests this Christmas. Clare Smyth guides us through the best of the cheeses, Signe Johansen has had the onerous task of testing puddings, mince pies and panettones, and chocolate master Willliam Curley has the unenviable job of testing chocolates, bars and boxes. Armed with our experts' shortlist you have everything you need.

We also have wines for different budgets, with our list of the best whites and reds by price. There's something for everyone, with wines from under a tenner to £50.

It is 100 years this month since the birth of Elizabeth David and we celebrate with a fantastic piece by Rachel Cooke. David lives on through her recipes, many of which are as useful today as they were when she published her first book in 1950. We ask friends, chefs and cooks to name the recipes that are still part of their lives. She had me at St Emilion au chocolat.

I have been busy baking and have friands and granita, palmiers and a sticky pud for those who need more than plum pudding to get them through the festivities. And, as it wouldn't be Christmas without beautiful music, we have choirmaster Gareth Malone and Ray Davies too.

So, welcome to the second of our special Christmas issues full of fun, feasting and, we hope, more than a little help. Wishing you a very happy time from us all at Observer Food Monthly, and looking forward to seeing you in the new year.


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