Orange wines? If you've not come across them before, you could be forgiven for thinking I've made them up. It sounds like something an ambitious but clueless marketing person would come up with having sized up wine's annoyingly limited colour palette and convinced their bosses what Generation Y really want is a brand new colour of drink.
In fact, if you listen to orange wine's (many) detractors, the artisanal producers of this niche but, in sommelier circles, very ontrend style of extreme white are more cynical than any corporate producer. Orange wines, those critics say, are an emperor's new drink, a way of passing off faulty, cloudy, dirty brews as an authentic, avant-garde and, of course, expensive way for credulous enthusiasts to express their individuality.
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