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Seven ages of a chef: Anna Hansen

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'Happiness is beautiful food for happy guests and getting out by midnight,' says the head chef at The Modern Pantry, 44

I'd studied business management back in New Zealand but arrived in London at 22 half my life ago without a clue what to do. I landed a job as a dishwasher at the French House Dining Room in Soho and loved it. I worked out a system effective rinsing, adequate soaking, methodical stacking and, being so enthusiastic, I got involved prepping fish, making ice-cream, all sorts.

[Owners] Margot and Fergus Henderson offered to train me as a chef. And within six months, they went abroad for six weeks and left me to my own devices. I was shitting myself. But Fergus's parents came into the restaurant and reported back that they enjoyed the tripe and onions which reminds me of the smell of elephant's cage. I realised I could cook something I don't even like.

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