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French wine in crisis? That's good news for small producers

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Quality in France is more widely available than ever, with many of the best wines from unheralded regions


The Anglophone press loves to tell the story of French culinary decline, the fall in the number of family boulangeries and boucheries, the decline of the long lunch and the burgeoning French love of fast food. This mix of envy and cultural cringe has been particularly apparent in the reporting of the wine industry's supposed fall from grace.

The latest was the news that Americans have overtaken the French as the world's biggest wine consumers. That per capita consumption in France remains much higher than in either the US or the UK didn't make the story any more welcome to the French: they are drinking 20% less than they were a decade ago, at around 46 litres each a year.

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