In 1994, revered food writer Richard Olney gathered recipes from his favourite cook. The result, Lulu’s Provençal Table, is timeless, says Simon Hopkinson
Having driven Richard Olney and our friend Jill Norman down the precipitous road that drops from Richard’s home into the village, his directions to the vineyard were vague: “This exit will do ... nearly there ... The gates are here.” All given while yakking in the back of the car. It is odd to be guided by someone who has never driven a motor car. But we made it and, after effusive greetings, calm requests followed from Lulu Peyraud, chatelaine of Domaine Tempier in the Bandol wine country.
“S’il vous plaît, Simon, aidez-vous Richard avec les violets?” she asked. Ah, oui, bien sûr, I replied, helplessly, regarding a pile of what looked like small marine rocks. “And do you like violets, Simon?” said Richard. Never had them, I said. “Well … I don’t care for them much,” he muttered in his gentle American drawl (Peter Lorre always came to mind), “but Lulu adores them, so that’s what matters.” And Richard adored Lulu Peyraud almost more than life itself.
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