Giorgio Locatelli, the chef patron of Locanda Locatelli in London, makes a classic risotto with red wine
Serves 4
good chicken stock 2 litres
butter 50g
onion 1 chopped very, very finely
superfine carnaroli rice 400g
Barolo wine 200ml, plus a little extra for serving (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the mantecatura
cold butter around 75g, cut into small dice
Castelmagno cheese around 100g finely grated, plus a little extra for serving, if you like
Bring your pot of stock to the boil, close to where you are going to make your risotto, turn down the heat and keep at a bare simmer. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan, and add the chopped onion. Cook gently until softened, but not coloured (about 5 minutes). Add the rice and stir to coat in the butter and "toast" the rice.
Make sure all the grains are warm, then add the Barolo. Let the wine evaporate completely, until the onions and rice are dry. Start to add the stock, a ladleful or two at a time, stirring and scraping the rice in the pan as you do so. When each addition of stock has almost evaporated, add the next ladleful. If the colour of the risotto isn't as intensely pinky red as you would like, add a little more wine.
Carry on cooking for about 15-17 minutes, adding stock continuously. After about 12-14 minutes, slow up the addition of stock, so that the rice doesn't become too wet and soupy at this stage, as when you add the butter and Castelmagno cheese at the end, it will become too sloppy. The risotto is ready when the grains are soft, but still al dente.
Turn down the heat, rest the risotto for a minute, then (for the mantecatura) with a wooden spoon, vigorously beat in the cold diced butter and finally the Castelmagno – make sure you shake the pan energetically as you beat. Season to taste.
If you like, have some spoons warming in a pan of boiling water, then pour in a little Barolo and rest a spoon on top of each plate of risotto, so that everyone can pour the warm wine over the rice – alternatively, do what we do at the restaurant, and make a little well in each plate of risotto, then at the table, pour in the wine and grate some more Castelmagno over the top.
From Made in Italy by Giorgio Locatelli (Fourth Estate £26). To order for £20.80, with free UK p&p, go to click here or call 0330 333 6846