How do you spot a hipster wine?

Some wines have pseudo counter-cultural stylings, but give them a chance – you might just love them

Now that hipster has come to mean anything vaguely to do with young people, you can add hipster wine to the clothes, music and coffee shops. But whereas in most cases hipster has, through overuse, become all but meaningless, when it comes to wine it’s actually quite useful. The word itself might be annoying, but in wine it sums up a genuine change in approach, a change that has been, for the most part, a force for good.

What do I mean by hipster wine? How would you spot one? Well I don’t just mean wine made by hipsters, although many of the wines in the burgeoning genre I’m trying to define are made by men and women in their 20s and 30s who fit the stereotype: beards, plaid shirts, social media smarts and ease with the words “authentic” and “artisanal”.